Inherited a jewelry box? Found a brooch at an estate sale? Some vintage jewelry is worth hundreds. Here's how to figure out what you have.
Fine jewelry — made with precious metals (gold, platinum, silver) and genuine stones. Value comes from both materials and craftsmanship. Always worth checking.
Costume jewelry — made with base metals, glass, rhinestones, or plastic. Most costume jewelry is worth $5-20. But signed designer costume pieces (Trifari, Weiss, Eisenberg, Miriam Haskell) can sell for $50-500+.
Fashion/designer jewelry — branded pieces from fashion houses. Chanel, Dior, YSL, and Hermès pieces hold value well regardless of materials.
Check for hallmarks. Flip the piece over and look for stamps. "925" = sterling silver. "750" or "18K" = 18 karat gold. "GF" = gold filled. "GP" = gold plated (least valuable).
Look for maker's marks. A signature, logo, or brand name stamped on the back or clasp tells you the manufacturer. Google the mark to identify the brand and era.
Use a magnet. Real gold and silver are not magnetic. If a magnet sticks strongly, it's likely base metal with plating.
Weigh it. For precious metals, weight determines melt value. Gold at $2,300+/oz means even small pieces have significant material value.
Snap a photo of any jewelry piece. AI identifies the maker, era, and pulls real sold prices.
Try finna — it's freeeBay — largest audience for vintage jewelry. Good photography is essential. Use "vintage" and the maker's name in your title.
Etsy — strong market for vintage jewelry (must be 20+ years old). Buyers expect detailed descriptions of materials and measurements.
Ruby Lane — upscale marketplace for antiques and vintage. Higher-end buyers, higher selling prices, but monthly shop fees.
Local jewelers/pawn shops — for fine jewelry with precious metals. They'll pay based on melt value, which is a floor price. You'll almost always get more selling online.